When you are working out where to go in Kerala, it helps to think of it like a well-stocked spice rack. Some are just basics and musts for every recipe. Such as the backwaters of Alleppey, or the old town at Fort Cochi. Others must only be used fresh and thrown in at the last minute, like a hiking trip up to the waterfalls of the Western Ghats, as soon as the monsoon has ended, when everything is aromatic and deliciously verdant. Ginger is revitalizing and awakens the palette, just like the Ayurvedic way of life that underpins much of Keralite’s wellbeing. And pepper, the most famous of all, represents the stimulating multi-cultural influences dotted all over this vibrant outward looking region of India. Just don’t put them all in at once, but savour them slowly, following a good recipe for responsible tourism.